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Being in Oaxaca during the celebration of Dia de Muertos, Day of the Dead, takes our experience to another level altogether. We are situated in an apartment just two blocks from the town center. Our comfortable room is in a complex belonging to an elderly Mexican woman, Maria, who shares her extra space.
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Amy is conversational in Spanish. We have been in Oaxaca four days but it feels like we are living lifetimes. Mornings start out quiet and relaxed with barely traffic, then as the day progresses everything intensifies. By evening lines of cars move slowly on the avenues that are open and people flood streets in the center that are closed to traffic.
Families are in costume and many people parade with painted faces. Clusters of musical groups abound, often accompanied by costumed dancers. I love the strong brass sections that always have tuba players that huff and puff along with the drummers belting out percussion.
Naomi, along with Maria's family The multi-day Dia de Muertos holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to pray for and remember those loved ones who have died, and help support their spiritual journey. Supposedly the dead can follow the pungent scent of the marigolds and arrive home.
Copal incense is burned too. The first night of the holiday, Amy and I hired a taxi and went to Xoxo pronounced ho-ho cemetery, an old, intimate resting place for the dead that is known by locals as the best place to have the real experience.
We arrived at dusk and stayed until after nightfall. Families brought huge bundles of flowers and marched to the graves of their loved ones to place the blooms and light candles.
We were careful at all times not to step on graves. We saw a big foreign man sitting on tombs while taking pictures and knew he did not know how to respect the place.
I could hear Amy praying in Spanish as we went. I took photos of candles and tombs. Early in the evening we came upon a small group of locals sitting by the grave of a loved one.
An old woman caught my eye and I asked to take her picture. She said something and nodded.
It is bigger, but to our chagrin, after walking down a closed street with festive booths on each side we found the gates had closed at 6: So we mingled with families having fun at a mini-carnival. At various times proud parents asked to photograph their children with us.
Isais Jimenez and Amy Cordova Events continue to unfold and yesterday a wonderful wood carver whose father is very famous drove with his wife from a nearby village to retrieve us and take us home. Isais is the son of artist Manuel Jimenez Ramirez December 9, — March 4, who is a legend in southern Mexico.
He and his family carry on the tradition begun by the father of painted wood carvings that are magical alebrijes. Amy illustrated a book about Manuel, called Dream Carver.
It is about a young boy who has visions to make wooden animals.O!
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